Triumph International has always had a larger than life image in the lingerie world. Ever since it entered India in 2002, the industry has never been the same again. The Indian market plays a vital role in their worldwide operations and this is borne out by the fact that there are two factories operating out of India with the bulk of the output exported to other countries. We met their Head of Operations,Mrs. Jennifer Kapasi, who hails from Germany but is also very Indian at heart, and quite forthcoming in her views. She knows her onions and has been long enough in the business to understand the nuances of the Indian consumers and its market. We grilled her about the company’s past and their current scenario and what the future holds for them.
Lace-n-Lingerie : What forms the inspiration of the brand? Tell us about the innovation that goes behind making your products?
Jennifer Kapasi : Our inspiration lies in the woman herself – sensual without being overtly sexy, feminine, informal and warm with inner drive and strength. Triumph is rooted in craft, and multifaceted to reflect our extensive range of products for various occasions. We share a contemporary image of women, we know what women want, their desires and aspirations, and we use that as a basis for our products.
In fact, we strongly believe in the confidence a women feels in being herself, which is also reflected in our global tagline “Tailoring female self-confidence since 1886”. Innovation is at the core of everything we do. Triumph presents a multitude of landmark innovations, patents and exciting new concepts. What characterizes Triumph is the drive to be best in class in all aspects of our business. We want to build something fundamentally better than what is out there today and not go for aesthetics alone. We’re inspired to solve real problems for all women and make women feel amazing while doing it.
L-n-L : How vast is the brand presence across the globe?
J.K. : Started in 1886 in Germany, Triumph is known for its manufacturing technique and innovation with a rich German heritage. Today Triumph International joins the ranks of global leaders in the lingerie sector, with more than 30,000 employees worldwide and a multifaceted product portfolio that is sold in more than 120 countries, from Norway to South Africa and from Mexico to India. This is taken care of by around 40,000 trade customers, with whom Triumph has traditionally had close relations, in addition to a dense network of 2,000 Triumph stores, which are operated both by partners and by Triumph itself. Triumph International also has different brands such as Triumph, Essence by Triumph, Sloggi and Valisere which can be found across the globe.
L-n-L : Please tell us about the early years of your company in India. How was the journey ?
J.K. :Triumph entered the Indian market in 2002. Back then, 70% of the lingerie shops in India were unorganized. There were hardly any brands in the Indian market with exception of 2-3 players like Lovable or Jockey. This scenario has changed in the recent past with the expansion of retail in India and the changing relationship of women with fashion, both on the inside and out. We brought a European sensibility from a very mature market to a place where it was still quite nascent and took a lead in educating both the trade and the consumers.
L-n-L : What do you perceive could be hurdles for the brand in serving Indian women?
J.K. : India changes at tremendous speed and so do the hurdles that we face in day-to-day business. It took us a little while to find the right formula for success. We came with a rich heritage in mature markets with organized wholesale structures to a country with a very limited exposure to modern trade. A lot of international brands make the mistake of applying the exact same principles that have been prevalent in their Western markets to India. While we were aware of the fact that we were dealing with a different market, our first years marked a phase of experimentation and reorientation in order to develop our leadership position in India and win our consumers’ hearts. So after entering, we had to review the market carefully and take each of our steps as a learning. One hurdle that we faced and which impacted our development in the earlier years was the lack of awareness in the market about quality and fit, and the lack of acceptance of innerwear as the foundation garment of your outer wear. In result of this, the consumer’s willingness to spend was less as it wasn’t seen as a true value addition, so we dealt in a highly price-sensitive environment. Despite all our global experience, information like this can only come through and be fed back to the brand once you start serving consumers in the respective country. In addition to that, lingerie was still a taboo subject, not discussed and advertised so openly. We came from a very different background so we had to tweak our communication keeping local sensibilities in mind. The only way to overcome this was to invest into market and consumer education, which we have made one of our core focus areas. And successfully so.Speaking about hurdles of the past, it sounds like a whirlwind because it was. There were SO many challenges. But we were persistent, dedicated, optimistic, patient and confident and we have TRIUMPHED!
Today, the hurdles have shifted to different topics. We have found acceptance, and we have created positive consumer experience with a longing for more. To stay consistent with the rising expectation in terms of product, service and brand experience, we now have to find solutions to cater to scattered consumers likewise and create more sophisticated shopping environments and higher engagement levels.
L-n-L : How do you perceive the brand in terms of style?
J.K. : We are a style seeking brand where fashion meets function, and the choice for every woman’s lingerie needs. Our dedicated global design teams ensure that the brand always has its pulse on the latest trends in fashion, in combination with high style functionality for ultimate fit and comfort. We offer our customers a variety of cuts, fabrics and wearing options which complement their lifestyles at any given point of time – right from their teen years to a more mature stage.
In early 2015 we conducted a dipstick study with consumers to ascertain brand perception from their point. One of the questions we put forward was around the attributes consumers associate our brand with, and the majority of participants characterized Triumph as being “classy”, “stylish”, “lady-like”, “chic” “elegant”, “fashionable” and “timeless”. It was extremely positive to see that the results mirrored the values we stand for and the message that we have put forward for the past 15 years.
L-n-L : How has your lingerie innovation changed from then to now? What new innovations have recently been added to your brand?
J.K. : We never stop innovating. It is one of our core values which we embrace with the ultimate objective to inspire women. We continue to set industry standards through our core competence of best fit, derived from a deep knowledge and understanding of the female body.
In the 1950s, Triumph created the first stretch straps for bras, ending pinching in one stroke. The first strapless corset was introduced in the 1930s – ideas that we would take for granted now, but were revolutionary at the time. Triumph also created the first moulded bra in the1970s, paving the way for the T-shirt bra that would dominate in the 1990s and beyond.
In India, we were the first brand in 2009 to launch the seamless T-Shirt bra, and in 2014 we introduced our innovative Body Make-up TM range, featuring light-weight seamless bras and panties that feel like second skin. We have also launched our Cool Sensation TM collection which is made from revolutionary ‘Touch Cool’ fabric that effectively reduces the body temperature by 1.27 degrees Celsius.
One of our biggest innovations yet is the Magic Wire TM bra which has won the much reputed international Red Dot Design Award last year. Made from super flexible silicone wire instead of metal, it feels like wearing no wire at all. This product has already been launched internationally and we will bring it to India by the end of this year.
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L-n-L : What are some interesting trends you are seeing in the lingerie market in India?
J.K. : The next few years are going to see very exciting developments in the lingerie sector. For one, more international brands are pushing into the market, mostly in the premium and luxury segment. While we welcome this change as an overall benefit to the market development and growth, we also need to be aware of the environment growing much more competitive. Brands will need to differentiate themselves with more focus, create stronger identities and ensure they meet evolving needs and desires. If you have not done your homework in this by today, you risk losing out in the future.
Trend-wise, Triumph has been instrumental in introducing higher fashion quotients in line with global trends to the market. When you create consumer experience, you need to ready yourself for rising demands. Thus, we have moved from product launches on 6-month basis, to quarterly launches and lately monthly launches and we see other brands slowly following.
With regards to consumer trends, we experience a strong shift from functional or occasion led buying to emotional buying. Lingerie today is a fashion statement with a feel-good-factor. It is seen as an extension of a woman’s personality and desires. Why? Because it makes her feel sensuous, elegant and fashionable and radiates her inner confidence.
L-n-L : What is the thrust of your advertising communication this year?
J.K. : As mentioned, one of Triumph’s focuses in the past years was market and consumer education and beginning of 2015 we launched our global ‘Stand Up for Fit’ campaign in India. This campaign aims at helping women to take out the time to understand their bodies, seek professional help through our fit experts and discover their actual size. It also aims at breaking down barriers in the search for advice on lingerie and personal fittings.
To make it a little more interesting and engaging, Triumph has gone one step further and created a special animated movie called ‘Find the One’ that stars Triumph and Sports illustrated model Hannah Ferguson. It brings alive an emotional story of finding the right bra, in a beautiful and innovative way, with which women can easily identify.
As part of this entire campaign, we also hold special fit sessions across India where customers cannot only experience Triumph’s entire product portfolio, but educate themselves about the right fit and how to ‘Find the One’.
L-n-L : Does Triumph feel the need of celebrity endorsements? If so why? And if not, then why?
J.K. : Internationally, we have been associated with many celebrities over the years, who embody the essence of our respective brands, viz: Naomi Campbell, Kylie Minogue, Helena Christensen and most recently, Hannah Ferguson. In India, we have not yet taken that route. One of the reasons is that lingerie in itself has been (and still is to some extent) a very sensitive topic and needed to find acceptance status within society first. In addition to that, our strategy and brand focus has been more consumer and market-driven till date. But you never know what the future holds.
LnL : How evolved is Triumph on the social media? And how important is it for the brand?
Social Media is very much a part of our overall Marketing strategy. We have an active Facebook page and Instagram, Pinterest and Twitter presence. In today’s scenario, it has become impossible to ignore the power of social media. It serves not only as an advertising tool but also as customer care, grievance redressal etc. and we believe in maintaining a constant dialogue with our consumers. We use our platforms to not only showcase our new collections and launches but also to talk about trends, glam, personal style etc.
L-n-L : What was the annual revenue for your company last year and what is the projection this year?
J.K. : Triumph International has closed 2014 with an annual turnover of EUR 1.437 billion across markets. Amongst all the countries Triumph International operates in, Triumph India is the highest and fastest growth contributor for the last 5 years.
With growth numbers around 40% year on year, we exceed the industry average by almost double as the mass premium and premium segment is currently growing between 20 – 25%, whereas the entire lingerie category ranks around 15% CAGR.
L-n-L : What is the growth envisaged for the next five years?
J.K. : We expect to continue growing above industry average, going as high as 50% but definitely not lower than 30-35%.
L-n-L : What are the key company milestones for the next 6-12 months that need to be achieved?
J.K. : The next 6 – 12 months will see a continued awareness building on ‘Stand Up for Fit’ and ‘Find the One’ campaigns beyond metro cities and into tier 2 and 3 cities. Our other imperative is to make the full Triumph collection available across the country and reach consumers irrespective of location either offline or online.
L-n-L : Could you kindly elaborate on the contributions the brand has made to the lingerie industry over the years?
J.K. : We may have been very early in our approach to adapt European standards to India, yet our initiatives have set industry standards that have been picked up and followed by other brands over the years. We stand unrivalled in quality with an extremely high loyalty customer base. Many women know our products by name and color and come and ask for them just the same way someone walks into an Apple store and asks for a specific iPhone model. This has probably lead to the high amount of product copies that you find in the market today, something which we have gracefully taken in our stride – just as the saying goes: imitation is the best form of flattery.
You may argue if our products were possibly over-engineered for the Indian consumers at the time that we entered the market; perhaps above consumer expectation and therefore maybe not understood in full, which may have resulted in initial resistance against more premium price points. However, Triumph stands for outstanding quality and fit across the world and as a brand we never trade off on this in favor of pricing. We rather drive understanding and development. Our consumers today can in no way be compared to the earlier years. With the right product proposal at hand and the right shopping environment and service levels, higher price points are no longer an obstacle.
In a way, it is all these efforts combined that have paved the way for other international brands to enter. We primed the market. India’s consumers are now ready for more; in fact they are demand for more. We have worked to create desire, aspirations and demands. And we have also set a benchmark in the modern trade spectrum, and are often used as a role model for the strategy applied in offering the right merchandising mix to different stores, owing to our level of deep knowledge about consumer buying patterns.
L-n-L : Tell us about your global resources in developing the Indian market? How important is it to be in India and China (considering they have their own developed markets in lingerie)?
J.K. : Our market cap in India is still small in comparison to other countries but we have the highest growth ratios here. In other developed countries our range may go up to 1,000+ styles, offering consumers a huge variety and lingerie options to suit various lifestyles and changes. Triumph International India at present has about 150+ styles and close to 400 style-color combinations. The fast growing trends and current gap to other countries itself shows the huge growth potential in the coming years and the importance of India as a balance to other mature and sometimes stagnating markets. We foresee India playing a significant role in the years to come.
L-n-L : What kinds of responses from the consumers have excited you as a brand?
J.K. : A few weeks back we were awarded the Best Lingerie Brand in 2015 by Shoppers Stop, which goes to show the love and loyalty amongst consumers towards our brand, products and services. The same is backed up by this year’s market study that we conducted and in which we could register an extremely high brand recall amongst women, paired with being the preferred brand of choice. We love the emails, social media posts and calls we get that show the enthusiasm of consumers when our products are finally available in their hometown or vicinity. Sometimes they specifically write to us or our partners about outstanding service received from our sales advisors and fitting experts. A less vocal but more powerful response can be found at the time of our product launches, when new styles fly off the shelves and we sometimes find ourselves out of stock before the anticipated time.
L-n-L : How strong is your presence in the Indian market and what are the five things you’d need to still do?
J.K. : Triumph’s penetration into the Indian market is extremely strong, with presence throughout all sales channels. Our distribution spans across over 75 cities (direct supply) with more than 1,000 points of sale, in addition to an emerging and fast growing online platform.
Triumph is always amongst the top 3 lingerie brands named by consumers and brand partners alike and we are proud to own almost 35% market share in modern trade at present. The classic trade channel, though marked by a higher brand portfolio available, shows equally strong trends. But, that doesn’t mean that we will rest on our laurels. There are more things to do, such as:
- Higher consumer education in tier 2 and 3 cities
- Build up our own web store with a superior brand experience
- Strengthen our own retail channel to offer a more premium shopping environment
- Build up our luxury and niche segments
- Integration of online and offline shopping experience and operations.
L-n-L : What does Triumph go from here?
J.K. : In one word: BIG!!! .
We want to be India’s number 1 lingerie brand that no woman can do without. I am German, and Triumph is a German brand as we all know. As a girl growing up in Germany, there is no way that you can think about lingerie without thinking of Triumph. When I joined Triumph 5 years ago for India, my father said, “Wow! That was my mother’s favorite brand!” Such is the brand strength and awareness that Triumph has built over the last 129 years. And this is where we aim to be in India!
